After a massive breakfast to fuel the aching bod from our Actanenango climb, we were chomping at the bit to make use of the few days we had left in Antigua. Once the Guatemalan capital, Antigua was a bright, sparkling present just waiting to be unwrapped. Like protective brothers, three volcanoes looked down upon this Spanish colonialised city. Streetscapes boasted brightly coloured walls, historical relics, churches, plazas, markets and a tumble-down charm only a city carrying a thousand secrets could have.

The preservation of it’s vibrant and proud culture was everywhere. From the traditionally dressed women carrying bundles on their heads, to the corn festival trumpeting from the square, to the throbbing markets on either end of town – the charm just kept revealing itself to us.

It was hard to choose a street to walk down because shops filled with brightly coloured textiles and woven blankets were beckoning at us from every angle. Ruins were juxtaposed against beautiful colonial buildings, and newly painted walls held up tired ones with restored effort.

We put our tired legs to the test and decided to head straight for Cerro de la Cruz (Hill of the Cross). An uphill battle for the protesting thighs, we did manage the 20 minute walk along an overgrown spiral staircase through the jungle. Again we were afforded a magnificently clear day and on reaching the top, looked out southward over Antigua and straight to the top of Volcan de Aqua.

Learning a little of the history as we began soaking in this ancient town on foot, we realised the extent of its resilience. Against all odds, this population has risen through the ashes of volcanic eruptions, re-built the land after earthquakes and floods, and nursed wounds back to health after the cruelty of wars and virtual political abandonment. This major backpackers hub stands because of it’s proud people who never gave up fighting for their home.

Outside of town, coffee, chocolate and macadamia nut plantations sprawled around the city and their produce now filled the air and stomachs of patrons in store windows. Visiting the Choco Museum was the second highlight of the morning for us, as oversized chunks of taste testers were eagerly shoved into our palms and to wash the taste down, chocolate tea was served. As we sat there listening to Juan fill us in on how Central American’s invented cacao, the rain suddenly started bucketing down. The women selling their hand woven materials around the outside of the open building were madly trying to savour their colourful bundles. Sam and I instinctively jumped to our feet and rushed over to help them, with Juan looking on in bewilderment. Once our help was accepted, we couldn’t see over the huge piles these tiny women were trying to chuck onto our heads! We were resuming the western position of backs braced and arms piled high – trying to balance the endless fabrics all at once. Laughing, we were running back and forth, with everyone else just staring at the colourful spectacle in confusion. These beautiful, salt of the earth Myan mothers hugged us as if we were their own when we left.

Now sweating chocolate, we snaked away under the thin coverings along the side of the road to try and dodge the rain. Tourists, locals, dogs and vendors all strained to cover their heads – smiling and patiently waiting for the soggy person in front to move first. Onward we pushed to the Santa Catalina Arch – the distinctly Antiguan landmark. Tourists seemed to be crawling all over this yellow arch with selfie sticks and awkward poses. Following suit, we joined the stiff queues to capture our two heads against a blur of yellow and pressed on. We couldn’t resist looking in the numerous artisannia stores tantilising us with their Aztec beauty and the many churches which guarded the streets. Before we knew it, dusk was settling and plantains (fried banana) were calling.

N I G H T  L I F E

After a couple of recuperated nights, we checked out of our Adventure hostel – Ox Basecamp and went in search of The Doozy Koala. This brand new part-Aussie owned hostel relies solely on word of mouth for bookings. We had heard about the fun little place when we were in Lake Atitlan so thought it would be the ideal venture for making friends. We were not wrong.

Humble Cody, the Aussie owner had his parents staying at the hostel when we were there, who were beaming with pride. His business partner, Mexican multi-millionaire Enrique was anything but humble, and launched into showing us around the renovations which were under construction. We quickly settled into our surprisingly comfortable 8 bed dorm and joined the bar for happy hour. The current facilities and future plans for the Doozy Koala were pretty amazing. Everything you needed a hostel to be was embodied in this one. Beautifully located, the dorms featured large, comfortable beds, darkened windows, lockers, hooks and power points. The bathrooms were comfortably large and common rooms were fantastic. After a couple of drinks we were soon cornered by Enrique who began launching into these incredibly unrealistic stories we immediately pegged as embellished lies. Turns out however, this ex-Big Brother contestant, model-dating bad-boy, really did get paid to stay out of Mexico by his parents. Fed up with this cahooting and headline-making behaviour, they banished him from his country with a never ending bank account if he promised to only return at Christmas. Wild stories of cartel, electrocuted testicles, mansions, gambling and despair eventually led Enrique to Antigua where he has since forged a new life for himself buying bars, hostels and parties around the city. We certainly wasted no time in filtering in our opinion of him and I think this challenging of thought granted us an unspoken respect.

As a group of us left the hostel together to head to one of Enrique’s bars, we suddenly realised we had extra company. Two security guards were escorting us out – one leading the pack and the other behind us. They were his bodyguards and we were now part of the untouchable pack which granted us any seat in the house and free drinks all night. I tried to speak to one of them, only to be told by Enrique they had a job to do and it wasn’t making conversation. Sam and I couldn’t believe the strange twist of fate which now meant we were partying in VIP rooms throughout Antigua and had personal guards to ensure complete safety. Try as we did to buy our own drinks, it was impossible.

After a massive night out, we fell into bed only to be woken up a few hours later by our dreaded alarms. Our transfer to Earth Lodge was going to be arriving any minute. Heads spinning we threw our packs together and painfully edged our way out of the hostel room which was snoring in unison like a choir. We were headed to a tree house respite about 15km outside of Antigua.

E A R T H  L O D G E

Our transfer soon showed up which was not at all what we were expecting. Poor Sam took one look and had to run to the bathroom to throw up last nights martini’s. We were going to be driven by pick up truck.

This wouldn’t have been an issue if we weren’t hung as balls, yet on we revved as the struggling vehicle chugged its way higher and higher into the mountain scape. Our little driver Mario was an absolute delight and after we explained “Muchas tequila in the noche. No Bueno” laughed and laughed throughout the thirty minute car ride, catching sight of us through the review mirror every now and again and laughing again.

It was a good thing he was on our side, as the roads were appearing more trecherous with every twist upward into the mountains. Dangerously close to plummeting to over the side, there we were, precariously perched on a dirt road etched into the ferocious cliffs of Guatemala. Finally, after almost reaching the height of the clouds, and passing many amazing villages dangling off the mountain side, we screeched to a halt. Mario rushed back to help us get loaded up with packs and courage before having to embark on a 300 metre dash of madness down the side of a cliff. We were NOT in a good state by the time we had tackled and almost failed that incredibly sadistic hike to reach Earth Lodge. But SO worth it!!

We had entered the stuff of dreams. Magnificently built to face the distant valley of volcanic power and prestige, we took residence in a tree house on an avocado farm for two nights. With nothing to do but hike through the surrounding jungle, eat beautiful vegan home cooked meals, continue to be wowed by our house in the tree canopies, watch for the distant larvae of Fuego and read books, we were quick to rejuvenate!

The delicious goodness of this picturesque beauty seeped into our bodies and hearts. We were again blown away by the sensational feels of Guatemala. It was like nothing we had ever imagined, and had by far exceeded all expectations we originally carried over with us.

View from our tree house.

Creeping into the list of top places I have been around the world, Guatemala is definitely one of the best! And unfinished with. I NEED to return to this magic country.

There is so much more I am yet to see and feel here.